How to Prevent Breakage with Under-processed Hair

A while back, I wrote an article about one of the major pitfalls of stretching your relaxers for extended periods - Underlapping.

 

The discussion which followed made me realize that there are many of us out there struggling with this issue. Just to recap, "Under-lapping" is what results when all your new growth isn't reached when you relax, leaving you with a pattern which resembles a) and in more severe cases, b). Oh Dear! 
 

 

 

Now if we are not careful, some major breakage can result since we are dealing with a number of demarcation lines which represent vulnerable points on the hair shaft. So how do we avoid breakage in this situation? Let's find out:

Your Job is Causing Your Hair to Break!

Now that I am not in a 9-5, I suppose it's a good time to poke fun at all of those who are. I'm kidding!! But looking back I realize that while on the job, we find ourselves in a barrage of situations which can, and indeed will, cause breakage.

 

The other Side of Relaxer-stretching - Under-lapping

We all know the perils of overlapping, so we stretch our relaxers to prevent it. But what about 'under-lapping'? You don't know what that is? Yeah, I just made that up. But on a serious note, what I'm referring to is when you have lots of new growth and don't get to all of it when relaxing, leaving you with a tad bit of curly (natural) hair between your processed parts.

unprocessed bits shown on damp hair

Living on the Edge - Out with the Wig Cap!

When I bought my first unit for protective styling, I bought a wig cap as well. I wore the pair together religiously. These days, I totally go bare under my wigs because the wig cap, I feel, was doing damage to my edges. I have had thin edges since I can remember. Not bald-thin so I never had a problem. 

typical edges (pre-HHJ)

But a few wigs ago in about July, I noticed they were thinner than before (see below).

Becoming Detached - A Look at Hair Breakage

If length retention has a nemesis, then this is most definitely it. Breakage occurs when the strands become too weak to hang on any longer. Many people think their hair isn't growing as they have been at the same length for years. What is really happening though, is BREAKAGE. Hair is constantly growing (unless there is a medical impediment), and grows from the scalp at an average rate of 1/2 inch per month. The reason it appears stagnant is that it is breaking equally as fast as it grows, leaving you to think there is no growth. Do you find little pieces of hair on your floor, in your sink or in your combs and brushes? That's a sign of breakage, so please keep reading.